On this page are some links to, and information about providers of photography courses and workshops. Typically, people who take these courses use digital SLRs, but most still welcome you if you prefer to use a compact digital camera instead, although you should always check equipment requirements before booking.

Going Digital

Going Digital has been running photography workshops since 2005 and now operates in 130 venues across the UK. Course start at around £75.

The range of photography courses provided by Going Digital is quite extensive and there is something for everybody, no matter what their skill level, experience or interests.

Typical courses included the following subjects:

Website – Going Digital

DigitalMasterclass

DigitalMasrtclass is run by Brian Beecroft and Paul Andrew, who between them have many years of photography experience. They run online photography courses, photography workshops and offer one-to-one training. The courses here are around the £250 mark if you cannot get funding, but you are able to pay in instalments.

Website – DigitalMasterclass

Red Cloud Photography Days

Red Cloud Days provide online and offline digital photography courses, experience workshops and tutorials for all photographers. The offline courses stretch across England and reach out into Wales (Welshpool) and Scotland (Edinburgh) too. The cost of the courses vary depending upon location and subject. Most of the courses on offer here are for DSLR users only*.

Course incude:

• Introduction to digital photography*
• London photography tour
• Landscape photography*
• Photography weekend training holiday
• Portrait and studio photography*
• One to one training

Website – Red Cloud Photography Days

What this translates to in the real world is in a low-light situation, a higher ISO setting increases the shutter speed and helps you get the shot you want. The downside to this is that the shot may come out a little noisier (grainier) than you hoped for. It certain situations, such as a gig or shooting skateboarders, the additional noise can enhance the shot and give it an edgier feel.

In everyday situations, when the light is good, most photographers who use the manual settings on their camera set the ISO to 100. This is perfectly adequate for most of us.

If you prefer to leave your camera in Auto Mode, the camera chooses the best ISO setting for the shot. In my opinion, to get the most from your camera and to learn more about photography techniques, I encourage you not to use the Auto Mode and switch instead to manual. Okay, you will mistakes, but that is how we learn.

Situations when you may need a high ISO

There are situations when a high ISO is required. Typically these occasions occur indoors, when you can’t use flash or when the light is fading.

Here are a few examples:

• Art galleries, museums, public buildings – if the building allows photography it may not allow flash photography
• Concerts and gigs – increasing the ISO to the higher end of the range will help you get a better shot
• Social gatherings – flash may remove ambience from your image

Canon has announced the release of another new lens in the acclaimed L-seris; the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM telephoto zoom lens. It is the successor to the very popular EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM and offers improved performance in every area.

• Large f/2.8 aperture for optimum low light performance and shallow depth of field
• 4 stop Image Stabilizer
• Flourite and UD elements minimise Chromatic Aberration
• Strong construction
• Weight 1.5kg (boxed 2.7kg)

Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L IS II USM Lens

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM – Sample Images

Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8 L IS II USM Lens

These two photographs of a rusty Morris Minor were taken last autumn during a visit to the Willowpool Garden Centre in Cheshire. The car was located inside quite a large green and white striped polytunnel. The stripes and colours of the polytunnel were difficult to exclude from most of the angles I tried to shoot from and the light shining through the polytunnel gave the car and unrealistic green hue, but I didn’t want to leave without capturing anything.

I decided to focus on some of the more interesting elements of the car, such as the headlamps, grille, badge and rust. The two shots here are the best of a small bunch.

Heaton Park has become one of my favourite places for dog walking, and when I go I usually take my camera with me, but when I visited the park a couple of days ago I didn’t take the camera. I regretted that decision as soon as we (me and the dog) arrived as the colours and light were perfect; the day was cloudy, a bit drizzly and had a real atmosphere about it and the autumnal colours were in full flow. That day I had to be happy with a walk…but today was different, today I had the camera and below are some of the scenes I came across during my two hour walk.

When we arrived at 9am it was mild and overcast. As I was leaving the clouds had disappeared, the sun was shining and there were families making the most of the great weather during the half term holidays.

Carpet of autumn leaves at the foot of a tree

Autumn leaves on a beech tree

A man walking his dog in Heaton Park

Three dogs

A Heaton Park bench

Heaton Park Golf Course

Heaton Park football pitches

The view through the trees

Heaton Park trees

Mushrooms on a tree trunk

Mushrooms close-up

Straight from the horses mouth

Naked Tree

Naked Tree 2

Tree Trunk

Two Horses

Two Horses 2

White Horse

Heaton Hall, Heaton Park, Manchester

The photographs you link to do not have to be taken during the challenge week, they can come from your archive, but it is important that the images are on topic (although creative interpretation is encouraged), and not about something totally irrelevant.

This weeks subject is Autumn 2009 and all you have to do to get your photograph added to the list is submit the link – your link is published immediately and will appear in the list when the page is refreshed.

There are editorial policies to follow; the link should take visitors to the photo, they should not have to scroll down the page or have to embark on a hunt to find the image, the link should point to a page that will not be deleted and you should not link to the home page of your site.

PhotoFriday.com has been around since November 2002 and it is possible to trace each challenge since its launch. However, it is not always possible to see the entires for every challenge as many of the submitted images have been deleted or the pages have been removed from the original sites (so much for following editorial rules!). Not surprising really as some of the challenges are almost seven years old.

If you like the idea of Photo Friday, but think you might forget to check out fresh challenge each Friday, you can sign up for an email reminder.

Broken UV filter

Camera lenses don’t come cheap. Even if you buy one from the bottom end of the range it is likely to set you back about a hundred quid at the very least. Once you start hitting the mid range lenses you are talking a few hundred and at the top of the range you are talking quite a few thousand.

That is a lot of money to spend on a piece of essential kit that can be easily scratched, dropped or broken, especially if you are prone to the odd case of butterfingers.

Protect your lenses with a UV filter

One thing that most experienced photographers suggest you purchase at the same time as a lens is a UV filter – this is mainly because a UV filter stops haze getting through the lens to the final image, but it also protects the lens from scratches and other damage.

I have followed this advice religiously.

Sunday morning blues

Recently, I bought a new lens for my Canon EOS 40D. It was the Canon 75-300mm III USM and it cost £350.00 from Calumet. On the first Sunday morning after buying it I decided to get up early and head out to see what it could do. I got up in the dark and had my usual cup of tea before making my final equipment checks. Everything was in my bag so I was good to go.

However, what I didn’t do was zip up the bag. Instead, I left it open and as I went to lift it from the kitchen table my new lens slipped out of the open end and fell onto the tiled floor. I could see splinters of glass on the floor and I feared the worst.

I picked up the lens and looked closely. It looked like it was just the fliter that was smashed and not the lens. The filter ring was damaged so I couldn’t unscrew the it from the lens. I managed to removed most of the bigger pieces of glass, and tried a little more to remove the filter. After a while I decided to stop in case I damaged the lens, or the shards of glass scratched it.

Monday morning came and I phoned Calumet in Manchester. They told me to bring the lens in on Friday and they would have a look and try and to fix it for me. I took the lens in on Friday and for the princely sum of 30 odd pounds they fixed it for me. The lens was not damaged in any way. The UV filter had taken the brunt of the shock and had protected the lens just how the experts said it would.

I can look back at this event now and tell the story quite lightheartedly, but the day it happened I was the grumpiest person alive. When the lens hit the floor I used every expletive I could think of. I guess most of my anger was directed at myself for making such a stupid (and possibley expensive) mistake.

Photo Credit : Camera Slayer

Bonfire Night is almost upon us and with it comes the oppurtunity to photograph something you don’t see every day – fireworks.

Fireworks are an excellent subject for photographers as the images produced can be very dramatic; the long exposures produce wonderful streams of coloured light against the dark backdrop of the night sky. Adding elements of the surrounding landscape can further enhance the image as they add a sense of location and occassion.

Attending a firework display or an event that incorporates a firework display is the best way to photograph fireworks. Asking your neighbour set off a few from their back garden just won’t cut it when it comes to quality.

There are a few basic rules to follow when shooting fireworks at a fireworks display, but as with most fields of photography, experimentation is key in order to find out what works best for you.

Use a tripod to keep your camera steady
The most essential item to take with you is a tripod. Most of the shots you take at firework displays require a long(ish) exposure so keeping your camera steady is of the utmost importance.

Use the bulb feature with a remote release
Prediciting how long a firework will last and what it will do is quite tricky if you are not a fireworks efficianado. You could set the exposure time to something you consider worthy of a good shot (1 second, 5 seconds etc), but if you use the bulb feature you can open the shutter and close it again at your leisure. Using a remote release means there is less chance of camera shake.

Photo Credit : Christopher Chan

Find a location to shoot from
It is important to find yourself a good location when taking photographs at firework displays. Getting to the event early can help you to choose the best place for you. If it is difficult to tell exactly where the fireworks are being set up, ask one of the event organisers or a member of the security staff. If the surrounding area is hilly it might be a good idea to site yourself on top of one of the hills as this could help you avoid getting the heads of onlookers in your photographs. Once you have decided upon a location set up your tripod and get ready to shoot.

Take two different lenses
Different lenses will obvsiouly produce very different results. A zoom lens can be used to get some nice tight shots of colour while a wide angle lens can be used to ensure you incorporate a certain amount of landscape. Firework displays on New Years Eve and other special occassions are often set against the backdrop of a cityscape, and including a famous landmark, building or structure can add further drama to the final image.

Aperture and shutter speeds
This is something for you to experiment with, but a good starting point for the aperture setting is somewhere between f/8 to f/16. The shutter speed is very important when photographing fireworks. You might like to capture a quick burst, or long trails or perhaps multiple bursts in the same shot? Take a couple of test shots at the very start of the display and check them in camera to see the results. Pretty much every firework display I have been to leaves the best until last, so you have a bit of time to make decisions on shutter speeds.

Photo Credit : sunsurfr

Keep shooting, shooting and shooting some more
In the age of the digital camera you can take as many photograps as you like without the worry of processing and waste, but you won’t really be able to enjoy the fireworks display as you will be too busy controlling exposure lengths and tinkering with the shot angles. Firework displays only last for a very short time so make sure you take as many photographs as you can in the time allowed. Check your shots every now and again, espeically after you have made an alteration to the settings you have previously been happy with, but don’t check every shot – it is much more important to keep an eye on the sky.

Take somebody with you
The very nature of firework displays means you will be working in the dark. Inner city events are known to attract people who like to exploit the situation and pickpockets and muggers are known to attend these events looking for unwitting victims, and photographers, with their expensive equipment, can be a prime target. If you can’t take someone with you try to stand close to a member of the security team.

Do you have any more tips for photographing fireworks displays? Why not search your ideas in the comments section below?

Some more photographs of firework displays from flickr (all published with a Creative Commons license).

Photo Credit : Christopher Chan

Photo Credit : James Jordan

Photo Credit : orvaratli

Not all cameras are made the same way and whilst it is possible to read and absorb the technical specifications of the digital SLR you are interested in to get a good idea of what it does and how it performs, you will never know how it actually feels unless you can hold it in your hands.

Hands

People have different types of hands; some people have big hands, other people have small hands. Some people have little stubby fingers, others have long, slender fingers. Camera manufacturers can try their best to make a “one size fits all” camera, but they are unlikely to ever reach the 100% satisfaction mark.

It is up to you to find the camera which, as well as suiting your budget and photographic requirements, also fits best into your hands and feels right when you are taking photographs.

If you decide to opt for a digital SLR from the lower end of the market you will probably spend about £300 – £400, quite a considerable sum for a lot of people. This on an item you may use daily, or at least, weekly. If the camera doesn’t feel right in your hands, even if it comes with all the bells and whistles you could wish for, you may be disappointed with your purchase and resign it to the wardrobe before you can say “say cheese”.

Try it in the shop, buy it online

Just because you try the camera in a shop doesn’t mean you have to buy it from a shop. Salespeople expect customers to try before they buy and will not give you a hard time if you finish your handling session with a friendly “Thank you very much for your advice, I am very tempted but I will have to think about it for a while.”

If the camera feels right you could make a note of the price and try searching the internet to see if you can pick it up for less. The chances are you will be able to.

One other piece of advice about going to a shop to try a camera before you buy – don’t take any cash or cards with you unless you really do want to make the purchase. If you have no physical way of paying for the camera the salesperson won’t be able to talk you into doing so. Works for me every time I go out on a recce.

If you do decide to buy from a shop don’t be afraid to ask if there is anything that can be thrown into the deal. Every time I spend a few hundred pounds on an item I will always say “is there anything you can throw in?”. I have never been refused and generally get an additional item (or items) worth up to £30.

Finally, I would just like to once again say how important it is for you to try before you buy. Holding a few different cameras in your hand and trying them out for size will help you to make a much more informed decision.

You can be more creative

The beauty of a digital SLR camera is the power you have over its settings. Most point and shoots are just that, you point the camera and take a shot. With a digital SLR you can be more creative. You can experiment with depth of field, take long exposures, perform lens tricks and shoot in low light conditions without flash. Having the ability to do all of these things will take the quality and range of your photography skills to the next level.

There are more accessories available for a digital SLR camera

If you take your photography seriously you will want to take advantage of the range of accessories available for digital SLRs. This includes lenses, filters, flash guns and equipment to furnish a small studio. Lenses are probably the first accessory people look at after they have been using their digital SLR for a little while as it soon becomes glaringly obvious that different situations require different lenses; a wide angle lens is good for capturing landscapes, whereas a zoom lens would be better for shooting any type of subject matter which is some distance away from you; birds, wildlife, aeroplanes, the moon.

You can take more photographs in less time

If you are into sport or action photography a point and shoot will let you down every time. They just do not have the power to shoot as many frames per second as digital SLRs. At the lower end of the Canon range is the EOS 1000D; this can shoot up to 3fps (frames per second), while the Canon EOS 40D can shoot up to 6.5fps and take up to 75 images in one burst. At the higher end of the Canon range is the EOS 5D Mark II. It can shoot 3.9fps and will fill the memory card with JPEG images if you leave the shutter open long enough.

The image quality is much better

Digital SLR cameras take much better quality pictures than standard point and shoot cameras because of their larger sensor. Image resolution might not important if you just want to store photos on your computer or make small prints, but if you would like to make larger prints from your work, a digital SLR is certainly the better choice.